highly prized Silk Road artefacts
After unearthing a rare collection of highly prized Silk Road artefacts, a family in the Himalayas has opened a museum dedicated to one of the fabled route’s final traders.
Muzzamil Hussain was in grade school when the first bombs fell on the playground outside his classroom in Kargil, a mountain city in the Indian region of Ladakh. As the 1999 Kargil War between Pakistan and India erupted around him, Hussain and his family fled south to the remote Suru Valley. When the war ended later that year and displaced families returned home, Hussain’s bedridden grandfather urged the family to check on an old property near Kargil’s bazaar, originally built by Hussain’s great-grandfather, to ensure it had survived the conflict.
When Hussain’s uncles unlocked the rusted latch and opened the hand-carved wooden doors, they discovered wooden crates stamped with the names of cities around the world. Inside, they found an extraordinary treasure trove: silks from China, silver cookware from Afghanistan, rugs from Persia, turquoise from Tibet, saddles from Mongolia, and luxury soaps and salves from London, New York, and Munich.
This remarkable collection, soon recognized as one of the finest family-owned assemblages of Silk Road artefacts in India, would change the course of Hussain’s life. Today, the family has opened a museum to share this rare glimpse into the history of the Silk Road, preserving the legacy of one of its last traders and offering visitors a chance to connect with the rich cultural heritage of this ancient trade route.
That was 25 years ago. Today, centuries after it served as a crucial yet perilous route for Silk Road traders, the Himalayan mountain pass of **Zoji La**, connecting Kashmir to Ladakh, remains one of the most dangerous roads in the world. On a recent visit, my palms began to sweat as our 4×4 labored its way up the steep mountainside. I nervously glanced out the window at a glaciated peak at eye level and the valley floor more than 1,000 meters below. No matter how close I pressed my nose to the glass, I couldn’t see the edge of the narrow dirt road—just empty air and a long, terrifying drop.
In the front passenger seat, Muzzamil Hussain calmly texted one of the many enterprises he manages with his family, including two hotels, two museums, a conservation NGO, and a tour guide service. For him, this treacherous journey was a regular commute, one his family had braved for generations.
I first met Hussain in 2023 while searching for snow leopards in eastern Ladakh. Over steaming cups of pink Kashmiri noon chai in a snow flurry at 4,265 meters, he shared stories of his remarkable connection to the Silk Road. His tales began with war, touched on buried treasure, and ended with reconciliation. As an archaeologist fascinated by mountain history, I was captivated and knew I had to learn more. Two years later, I found myself on the Zoji La, retracing the footsteps of Silk Road traders who, like us, hoped to reach the historic trading hub of Kargil before nightfall.
Hussain’s journey—from discovering his family’s hidden treasure to preserving its legacy through museums and conservation—is a testament to the enduring spirit of the Silk Road and the resilience of those who call these mountains home.
